More temples!

Yesterday all our driving was done on the flat; today it was the exact opposite. We spent most of the day moving around in the mountains. I don't think we encountered a 100 metre straight stretch the whole day. I've never been on so many hairpin bends.

As usual we did more temples; today we did three of them. The first two had extensive park around the temple so we could walk around enjoying the flowers. One was next to a mountain lake and while we were in the area we bought some strawberries. I haven't had one for quite a while but these were delicious. In India they've hybridised the local strawberry so that it's enormous, but the centre is a solid white core. These Balinese strawberries were juicy and dark red - delicious.

As we drove around I noticed that most of the temples have been built using a red brick. There are structures that are like the Cambodian stupas so I presume they are graves of some sort. Most of the religious buildings have thatched roofs but I never saw it being used for houses. My Buddhist friends were surprised to learn that the Hindu priests don't live in the temple. I reminded them that they are most likely married, with families so they live at home. I didn't see a single priest and I didn't see a single statue to a god. If I'd seen Hanuman I'd have definitely had words with him as I'm still single. At one of the temples we saw a tableau depicting what cock fighting was like. I can't for the life of me figure out why it needs to be in a religious place.

At one temple, if we were showing the slightest amount of bare leg we were told to wear a green sarong. It didn't matter that the ladies had bare shoulders - if you could see any flesh above the ankle they had to wear a sarong. I was in shorts so I had to wear one; it's amazing how hot it is. For the first time I saw a sign that said, "Drones are not allowed". Another asked ladies to be aware of cleanliness in the temple and therefore they shouldn't enter if they were menstruating. The place was full of young ladies so I'm sure some entered illegally.

I went around to find a place to change some money. I saw a sign with a very good rate but I couldn't find the office. I asked a young lady and she said, "It's outside but don't go - it's not safe. Just go across the road." I got a bit less but it was good to know that I wasn't being cheated.

I've come to the conclusion that the Cambodians have a big role to play in deforestation. I wonder if there are other people around the world who clean their cutlery and crockery before every meal? They believe they are dirty, even if the restaurant is spotless; they even clean them with tissue at home.

I'm fascinated watching people while we are travelling. Some people in the group talk non-stop and pay no attention to what's going on outside until the van stops and they are told to get out. Others stare straight ahead as if it's important to know where they are going. I am a 'roamer' my eyes are wandering all over the place as I'm fascinated by what I'm seeing. A friend said there were two kinds of travellers; those who are journey people (taking an interest in everything on the way) and the destination people, who are keen to get to where they are supposed to be going. I'm definitely a journey person.

While we were having our meal there was suddenly a lot of conversation at the table with people pulling a face as if they've eaten something they didn't like. It turned out they were upset that someone had sat at the next table and was smoking. It seems to me that smoking in Bali is a very popular pastime.

We were able to see an area with rice terraces and it really is a lovely sight. For me, the green of rice is a dazzling green. We could have paid a few dollars to walk through the fields but seeing as Cambodians know all about rice growing we decided to sit and soak up the view. Vuth's father is quite a character. He can't speak English so he communicates with his hands. Whenever we are together he takes my hand and massages it, squeezes my shoulders, tickles my legs. He's a lovely man so I don't mind one bit.

The motorbike is the king in Bali as so many of the side roads are too narrow for a car. All of the motorbikes had a little posy, made from dried straw, attached to their mirrors. It reminded me of the lime that we used to see in India, hanging from the bumper of vehicles.

I love reading signs. The highlight today was a clothing shop with a large sign above the store saying, "Dumpshit".

Our last temple is possibly the most famous in Bali. It juts out into the sea and can only be reached during row tide. It was swarming with people. Some were paying to go into a shallow cave to see a holy snake - I couldn't be bothered. We walked over the rocks with little tidal pools, left when the tide went out. It was interesting seeing sea anemones and other creatures waiting for the sea to come back in. In Bali I don't think we actually went into a temple but rather walked around them. In one temple an area was closed off with a sign that it could only be used for worship so maybe we aren't allowed in the temples. It's definitely a money making business for someone as we paid around $5 to enter each temple. When you can get a street meal for 50 cents it's a lot of money.

Thus ended our second day in Bali. It was a long day but people were happy.

Sensory Overload

It's been one of those days when I've had to make notes, otherwise I'd forget half of what I've seen and done. It's been a full day, hampered for a few hours by torrential rain.

General impression: very clean, friendly and courteous people, women often wearing sarongs and the men traditional head coverings. The traffic keeps in line, not like the Cambodian dodge 'em dance. Our van has a horn that sounds like a chirping bird.

In the early morning I saw ladies putting offerings on the ground and waving their hands over them - sometimes they were a simple leaf and at other times a mixture of leaves and flowers. Our guide is more of a driver than a guide so I didn't get any explanation other than it's a prayer. At times I asked him about the enormous tableaux along the street or on traffic islands. They were obviously to do with the Hindu religion. At one point he said, "You will have to read about Bali history." Everywhere we went we saw temples and they were generally Hindu. We did visit one of them and had to wear a sarong. There are small shrines all over the place; all of them have a cloth wrapper around the base - mostly a black and white cotton check but sometimes a bright brocade.

Sometimes I thought the tour was slightly inappropriate for the group of ordinary Cambodians with whom I was travelling. We went to see how they make batik and then silver work; these are always a part of the driver's route and often they get commission if people buy something - we didn't. We went on to the lovely Tegenungan waterfall, which we viewed from high up and far away. People walked down to the base of the falls but our group said they were too tired - it was 11am.

The group seems to be terrified about Indonesian food so we see a lot of Chinese food. With being the only non Cambodian I relax while the meal discussion goes on and on. So far the food's been good but at some point I may rebel if anyone mentions Chinese.

I'm told the main group of tourists comes from China with Australians a close second. The young Australians are very slim but the older ones seem to be suffering from the Aussie spread. There are tattoo parlours all over the place and so many tourists have very little space left on their skin for another tattoo. Their art work must cost as much as a minor masterpiece.

In the pouring rain we arrived at the Luwak Coffee plantation. The environment was beautiful with so much greenery, footpaths, terraces etc but, with the heavy rain, it was pointless doing any walking. Instead we were given samples of all the coffee and tea products they have for sale. They include chocolate coffee, coconut coffee, coffee with ginger, ginseng etc. - one "coffee" was an aquamarine colour. There were a number of flavoured teas too. Five of us were brave enough to try Civet coffee. This is one of those strange coffees created with the help of an animal. The civet (which to me looks and smells like a large ferret) loves eating the berries and the seeds pass through its system without being damaged. These berries are used to make a cup of coffee at $5 a time. I thought of buying some but I decided $50 for a 500 gram bag was a bit excessive. All I can say is that it tasted like coffee.

Because of the rain we decided not to go to the rice terraces but to return to the hotel. Then some bright spark mentioned shopping and, whoopee, off we went to an enormous warehouse type of place. Silly me was expecting a local market with stalls. The five women in the group were the leaders of the pack. Everything was very reasonable so they went overboard buying things for themselves and encouraging the men to buy something too.

Our entire route seemed to be one long strip mall of tourist type shops. I've never seen so many statues of stone and wood - I never did see anyone buying one. As we drove along, one of the group started to regal the others, in a very loud voice. It got on my nerves a bit as everyone was in hysterics and I hadn't a clue what he was on about. I should have brought my ear plugs. I can't even complain because I knew I'd be in for a Khmer experience. The other 11 people are all related so it was like a family outing for them. At one point I was given an English lesson. I don't know how it happened but the verb "to lure" came up so my Khmer friend explained to me what it meant, with various sentences to illustrate the meaning, plus other words I could use instead of lure. He did a good job.

Cambodians love fruit. In fact, we set off in the morning with bags of fruit which we ate on the way. Someone mentioned a fruit market so off we went. Again, I expected a "market" but we ended up in an enormous Carrefour supermarket. The clever company owners had us walk through the tourist section before we reached the fruit so naturally more shopping was done. I couldn't be bothered so I read a wall of funny statements printed on wood. One said, "If you want breakfast in bed then sleep in the kitchen."

The topic of dinner came up and guess what! "Is there a Chinese restaurant nearby?" Again, I have no complaints about the meal; it was a fitting end to a long day. All day I've been wondering where the sea was. Here am I, on an island, and I haven't seen the water yet. Tomorrow I've been promised the sea so let's hope it doesn't rain. I'm told we can always go shopping if it does rain.

Tuk Tuk trouble and disappearing restaurant

I was up at 5.45am as I wanted to get some walking done before our trip started.  At 8.30am we got into two tuk tuks and set off for the airport.  We arrived in half an hour but there was no sign of the other tuk tuk.  It had broken down!  The group came over an hour later.  We queued up to check in and a man came along telling people something in Khmer.  I asked what it was all about and I was told, “If you are an old man you can go to the business class desk.”  At times like this I really don’t mind being old.

I was in front of the rest of the group so I went through passport control, security etc and sat to wait for them.  After a while they came through the fast-track line, following an airport employee.  She happened to be the cousin of a young man in our group.  I love these developing countries where rules are bent a bit.  She came all the way with us and even came on board to say goodbye to everyone.

I’ve always enjoyed Malaysia Airlines.  The service was excellent on both flights.  I sat next to a Glasgow couple who’d been relaxing in a lounge but then, when we were boarding,, they decided they were alone because they were in the wrong lounge.  They sat next to me, huffing and puffing and saying all they wanted was a drink.  They got a drink - a glass of juice.

On earlier trips to Jakarta I’ve paid for a visa but this time, in Bali, I paid nothing.  It’s a very nice airport with lots of local art work all over the place.  We had to cross a large room that was as big as half a football pitch.  I could see no reason for the room; there were no chairs in it, no stalls selling things, absolutely nothing.   The guide met us and took us to the hotel.  It was dark but I got the impression that the traffic’s heavy but orderly.  The guide said we didn’t have to wear our seatbelts as it was a safe place.  A minute later he was talking about French tourists overstaying their visa and running off.  Some of them were shot - so much for it being a safe place.

The hotel looks very nice with three swimming pools.  I’m told the sea is just five minutes away but I have no idea in which direction.  The folks wanted a Chinese meal.  We were told there was a place down the road so off we went.  As usual, I ended up in front.  At one point I turned around and discovered I was on my own; the group had given up and gone back.  We were told there was a Chinese place in the opposite direction, so off we went; there wasn’t.  We did find a place that had Chinese food on the menu so I relaxed while the group discussed what to have.  I know one of the dishes was deep fried squid but I’ve no idea what the others were.  The men took out their phones and started to watch a football match between Cambodia and Malaysia.  I decided to watch a rugby match between Australia and New Zealand.  NZ were winning - maybe that’s why the Aussies are deporting a lot of Kiwis.

I was sharing a room with Meakara but he’s gone to join the lads in the next room.  I was wondering if I’d developed leprosy or something but he said he had travel agency work to do and he didn’t want to keep me awake.

So let’s see what tomorrow brings.

The US Democrats got their blue wave

I don't have a picture for today's blog; on the other hand, maybe I should look through my photo library for a bit of blue sea.

This morning I did my morning walking, wearing my headphones and listening to the BBC World Service's broadcasting on the US elections. Every evening I listen to American broadcasters and the British, to me, are so different. For one thing, they are polite. People kept apologising for butting in whereas in the USA it seems to be parr for the course. The Democrats have won the House of Representatives so they have the opportunity to block any of President Trump's plans, if they don't like them. I also heard that one of the first things they will do is to ask for the President's income tax statements. Now that's going to be interesting; we'll all be sitting, with baited breath, hoping for the worst - if we happen not to be Republican.

I've been dealing with changes the dental NGO have been making to their travel plans to Cambodia next year - changes to the equipment and to where people are staying. I've told them the paper trail has started and I can't make any changes. Each page ends up covered in official stamps and signatures. If I want to make a change to any particular page it means going right back to the beginning and getting the stamps all over again. I've told the NGO, if we have any problems when they arrive, they have to smile sweetly and say, "Whoops!"

I tried to multi-task at lunch time and it was a flop. I decided to use Heang's pumpkin juice drink to make a soup. I thought I'd add potatoes and onion to it so I decided to cook them first. I planned on leaving them on low heat for 10 minutes. Half an hour later I left my computer to check on the pan and found it past redemption. It took me as long to clean the pan as it did to cook the meal. One of these days I'll realise I'm past the best buy date and can only do one thing at a time.

I set up the Skip Bo cards to play with Phearak and Srun at 12.30pm but they didn't appear. I found out later than Phearak had decided to take the day off as he wasn't feeling well. Srun ended up doing his messenger work. Here in Cambodia, if you want any documentation done, you take the paper work to the office and then messengers deal with it for a small fee. It's a lovely idea as it gives people employment and it saves the rest of us from sitting around waiting for things to be done. I never understand why people take one day off; for me a sickness lasts a bit longer than 24 hours. When I was teaching we were allowed 1 1/2 days a month for sick leave. In all the 12 years I was in the north I never used a single day of my sick leave. When I decided to retire I wasn't rewarded for not using the days, nor was I given an earlier retirement date. I'm a slow learner - I realised at that time why teachers took their entitlement.

Samnang came over to cook my dinner - an English breakfast. Khmer dancing is like watching something in slow motion and Samnang's cooking is the same way. He carefully put each slice of bacon in the pan and stared at it intently, moving it around a bit. He told me to go and sit down. I'm glad I did as I was getting totally frazzled. The meal did appear, and it was good, so no complaints.

Later, I went over to the travel office to help Vuth with some computer work. I came away blessing the fact that I did my work on my own. The three boys surrounded me. Ponleu kept lowering my typing chair until I gave him a clip. Oudom hugged me while Samnang tried to grab the keyboard.

I've got my suitcase on the spare bed and I'm slowly filling it. "Filling" is the wrong word as I rarely take many things. When the temperatures around 30C there's not much need for anything in the way of clothing. I take the attitude, if I need something I can buy it. Tomorrow morning I have to be across the road by 8am. I think I'll have breakfast on the street at my neighbours' place. They do a lovely meal of bbq'd pork with rice, along with pickles and a small bowl of soup. All for around $2.

I've just listened to a fascinating podcast about the "Unknown Soldier" who is buried in Westminster Abbey. It was the idea of a British clergyman who served in the First World War. The body was buried in a state funeral on Armistice Day in 1920. The telephone people said not a single call in the whole of the country was made during the two minutes of silence. All trains, cars, boats and even planes stopped - the aeroplane mentioned switched off its engines for two minutes and glided. It's a wonderful half hour - just go to your search engine and type in 'BBC podcast Unknown Soldier'. I love the radio as it gives our imagination a work out.

Bali here I come!

My lovely bluetooth headphones

I've been so fixated on the US elections that I completely forgot about Guy Fawkes night. I've no idea if they still celebrate it in England? In the old days the build up to the big night was to push a cart, or old pushchair, around with a stuffed figure in it. Our family didn't do it because Dad used to buy us some fireworks so we didn't have to collect money from people. The kids used to stop people on the street; "Penny for the guy"! Dad would build an enormous (to us) bonfire with bits of wood he'd found lying around, broken down sheds etc. Our fireworks were simple spinning wheels and others that just went up into the air, fizzed a bit with colours and quickly went out. The best part was chucking potatoes into the ashes and cooking them. Guy would have been pleased to know we didn't burn him.

I bought a pair of Bose headphones. I was pleased to find them in a local market. I thought they'd come in handy when I'm moving around the apartment in the morning doing my exercises. They only cost $25 so I did wonder how much profit people were making on them; in Canada they are quite expensive. I soon realised they were another example of Chinese industry when I turned them on. A lady with a funny accent says, "The Bluetooth device, the Bluetooth device is connected a-successfully." Generally, they work quite well although yesterday a heavy metal band kept interrupting when I was listening to the BBC.

A few years ago I was in Phnom Penh when I decided I needed to buy a watch with numbers large enough to see without my reading glasses. I went to the market with Boroith and forgot to take my specs with me. I chose a watch with large numbers and paid $20. When I got home I saw "Longines" written on the watch. I was quite pleased with myself. I know, people are going to say I'm naive! The watch worked well but in Canada the strap broke. I went to Sears and bought a new one for $35 so already it's an expensive watch. I asked if they'd be able to install a new battery but the man said they weren't allowed to open expensive watches. I started to wonder if it was a real Longines. After a while it stopped working so I took it to a jewellers. The lady looked at it and said she wasn't allowed to open it. I said she could go ahead and fix it and I wouldn't hold her responsible. A few days later I returned to the farm and Phyllis told me the store had phoned to say the watch had been repaired. Then she said, "Oh, and the woman said it's not real!" That cost me $125. In India I accidentally knocked my arm against a wall and knocked off the winder. I decided to chuck it. My learning continues.

After yesterday's in and out day, today was peaceful. I started lunch early so I had an excuse not to go across the street if they called me - they didn't! Srun and Phearak came over for English lessons. There's a lot of material on the internet but often it's not appropriate for people here in Cambodia. American lessons use a lot of American jargon and, being British, I refuse to promote it. Today, I decided to play Solitaire with them. It meant choosing two cards which add up to 13. It was quite a job getting them to understand. Phearak constantly yawns; he's either doing that or giggling. It's funny how he picks up hardly any English but in card games he understands almost immediately. Srun has done accounting but he found the idea of totalling 13 a bit confusing. Eventually, they both caught on and we chatted while playing. They both go to university after a full day of work. Their classes are from 5 until 8.30 every Monday to Friday. I don't know how they do it.

My cook hasn't arrived yet. I wonder if he's coming. Sometimes I start to cook, thinking he's not coming, and then he shows up. Samnang gives me a rollocking. He wants to cook me fish and chips. I keep telling him I can't buy cod or haddock here but it's not putting him off. I'm trying to use things up in my fridge as I leave for Bali on the 7th.